You can ignore any dust and even any color variations, because no matter what you use to digitize your film, you will have to make some adjustments after the fact. You can see the comparison of one negative in both devices. I digitized four negatives and then scanned the same negatives in my Epson flatbed scanner and compared them. You will find that you will have to make some kind of adjustments no matter what you used to digitize your negatives. I would personally not use the built in adjustments as they can change for each roll of film or image, but instead use a program like PhotoShop to make adjustments. The Wolverine has the built in ability to make basic adjustments to a scan such as exposure & color levels. They have special instructions available to make an adjustment to the default digitizing area. I contacted the company and they were fast and courteous in rectifying the issue. One thing I first noticed was that it was not capturing the whole negative. I was quickly able to navigate the instructions and get my first negative digitized. You can check it out from the link above or click here. I won't go into the details about what it can do because that is in the description of the unit already. I have now had a chance to play around with it, and thought that others trying to create archives of their photos would find it helpful if I provided a review. Despite the heavy shipping during the holidays, I still received my Wolverine in less than a week. I have learned that I get a better digital image from the negative than scanning the photo itself.īefore Christmas I saw a special price on a Wolverine F2D Mighty 20MP 7-in-1 Film to Digital Converter and was quite interested in it because it sounded as though it would speed up the process of digitizing my negatives. Years ago I purchased an Epson scanner that also had the ability to scan film, but I found that it took a long amount of time to scan even one image to a resolution that would allow me to have a good archived copy of my photos. I am missing some film from my old 110 camera because I put the film in storage when I lived in Houston and the film ended up sticking to itself, thereby destroying the film. It is all in protective sleeves so they have been protected over the years. I have longed to get all my film digitized but felt overwhelmed with the amount of film I have. I guess I learned that you should never say never. I have since sold all my film camera equipment and have gone 100% digital. That all changed in 2004 when I returned from a trip to Poland and took both digital and 35mm photos and got the bill for developing TONS of film. When digital cameras came out, I swore I would never go digital. I eventually moved on to 35mm and medium format cameras. I think I got my first camera when I was about 10 years old. I have been taking photos for many years. Save images to internal memory (holds max.Along with many of you, I have tons of negatives that I would like to digitize.Stand-Alone no computer or software required.Unique Speed-Load adapters for fast loading slides & Negatives.Take enough frames and re-assemble into video Take JPEG snap shots of your 8mm and Super 8 Reels.Convert 35mm, 127 (1.5x1.5"), 126KPK, 110, APS Slides & Negatives into digital in THREE SECONDS.Easily connects to any Windows PC or MAC, to offload images or view on TV (TV Cable not included). All images are saved into its internal memory or direct to an optional SD/SDHC memory card. Use it right out of the box to convert all your film by plugging it into an AC outlet or any USB port. So simple to use, it only requires a push of a button. Wolverine has created a very simple to use device to convert all your film into 20 Megapixels digital images in seconds. Now you can take all those stacks of 35mm (photo film & Archive), 127, 126, 110, APS Slides & Negatives, Regular 8mm and Super 8 movies and convert them into digital JPEG images to share and preserve them forever.
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