Of course there are many builders on this forum who's work is thousands of times better than any train Lego would mass-produce. General comments about the set itself are better placed in the main thread on 10277. The rods in the original post are all about adding a little customization to the set and polish a few rough edges, while keeping the set mostly unchanged. Many builders never wander far from sets and there is nothing wrong with that. I have got a tracking number, not sure if it is sent yet or not tho.ġ0277 is an entry point to our hobby and as long as Lego has an AFOL train, we have a gateway. 13 below the cab.Īh yeah, I ordered 10277 from a subsidiary of lekekassen.no. Is half a stud offset up and left/right possible? for the inclined rod? that connects to the traction motor? Or should it be placed -1 and up 1 from the last wheel hole position?ġ is front on the left. The inclined rod/jackshaft position I am not sure of tho. With train wheel holes at positions 1, 9 and 13 "or 13,5 or 14, depending on where the wheel under the cab is placed". Without doing new parts, how could LEGO have done the rods, triangular rods etc as in real life? That's a half brick? off set.Īnd if modifying the model a bit, then his "A single 4 hole 13 long side rod" could be viable too? Or a custom modification of it.Ĭould the SBB Ce 6/8 III rod version be possible in LEGO? With a custom 13 or 14 long rod, or 13,5 even? Also remove one or both of the red traction bands from each of the axles under the cab if they are unpowered. If you do that, make sure to remove the crown gears from the two axles under the cab so that you do not wind up with all four of the cab wheels fighting with each other on curves. I've heard of a few folks who want to use the model as a dummy engine that is pushed from behind. (and it ran fine for over 30 min the next day) I only ran it for 5 min, but so far so good. I tried it on my 9v loop and it went fine either direction without any derailing. Thinking further, when you are running the engine going counter-clockwise through a curve you want it to drag on the inside track to pitch the outer wheel away from the rail joints. You want one band to ensure the drivers keep spinning, but you do not want two of them because the drag. I'll go back and test it clockwise laterĪfter playing with it for a while I got to thinking about the unpowered axles and that the traction bands are going to be fighting each other on curves. As per Railbricks 7, the rail joints provide a climbing opportunity when going counter-clockwise. I posted in the main 10277 thread about derailing when going counter-clockwise on 9v track. okay, just lights)ĪWildP32 forgot to read the care label, put the model through the dryer and discovered it shrunk I will probably be putting the designs up on Shapeways too.įor great ideas to improve the look of this model, see these links: They will be going into my next fab and will not ship until it is completed, after which point they will be a standard stocked listing. The rods are up for advance purchase here. ![]() So those challenges are a thing for the future.Īnyway, the actual modification is surprisingly simple, swapping one brick and one plate on either side of each hood.įull instructions for the MOD will be available here once moderated on brickshelf. Having not been familiar with these locomotives I did not realize that the rods on the prototype are far more complicated, but there are several other obstacles to creating more realistic rods for this locomotive. Fortunately I guessed correctly at the length. I recognized that the end of the jackshaft was a technic disk and wanted to create the illusion that this disk was tied into the rod without having to actually connect it mechanically. After seeing the first leaked images of this set I designed a new set of rods for the model. I'd like to present version 1.0 of my rods for the Crocodile Locomotive set 10277.
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